D178: Hostel Captain Jack @ Portobello, Panama

Early morning of D170, I took the bus from San Gerardo to San Isidro. On the bus I was travelling together with Nico, whom I met at the Albergue at Cerro Chirripo. Both of us were heading to Paso Canoas to cross to Panama with a short coffee break in San Isidro El General. Despite read and heard rumours, the border crossing was easier and more time efficient than anticipated. To find a bus to David was easier than to find a piece of bread in that messy and busy Paso Canoas.

Once in David, we decided to head to Boquete a mountain coffee town backed by Volcan Baru, the highest point of Panama. We settled in the pleasant and friendly Hostal Nomba hostel. Here I started eating at cheap local dishes consisting of rice and a piece of meat.

Unlike Costa Rica, the population of Panama is huge mix of races and still has a few native tribes which have maintained their language and culture. It is quite common to spot indigenous women wearing traditional clothes but the same does not apply to indigenous men.

The following morning (D171) we set to reach Pedasi on the Peninsula Azuero passing through the Interamericana. This meant travelling on five different buses changing in four different points (David, Santiago, Chitre, Las Tablas). During more than eight hour trip we had not encountered one single tourist so mainly we were travelling with locals. They were curios, helpful and kind. At some stage two siblings came to us and started ask question about our countries and families. Very rarely it happened in the last half a year that a child would have the courage to approach tourist. Not to mention sitting beside you and asking you questions. It is quite interesting to see how children think. At first they think you are from the US as they encounter a lot of expat Americans from the US and see a lot of US television shows.

After a long day travelling we arrived in Pedasi after dark. This was a small village which had only a handful of expensive hotels and only one hostel owned by a nice Israeli man. The private rooms were tastefully decorated but out of our budget range whereas the dormitory was okay budget wise but did not look that attractive. Eventually we decided to take a bed each at the dormitory. This was followed by dinner at a local restaurant where while we were eating the electricity was cut for 10 minutes. Luckily we were almost finished! Next step was to drop half dead in the bed.

The initial plan was for the next day (D172) was to reach Playa Venao. We woke up early in the morning to get the bus that meant to leave at 7. One hour passed, two hours passed still no bus in the horizon. Every person you asked said something different. Finally we made the decision to hitchhike. This only lasted 20 minutes, fed up and tired went back to hostel. We left our bags and walked 2.5kms to Playa El Toro which was huge and almost deserted. At this stage both of us just wanted to chill and snooze. Two hours later the sky became black and started to rain a bit so we walked back to the hostel and had a do nothing Sunday afternoon.

Fed up with the idea to get to Playa Venao, next morning (D173) headed to Panama City via Las Tablas passing over the world famous Panama Canal through the Puenta de las Americas. From here the view is just breath taking. Once in Panama City we took a bus and walked to Luna’s Castle in Casco Viejo. The hostel is housed in a green colonial house overlooking the fascinating Avenida Balboa filled with majestic skyscraper buildings. Walking in Casco Viejo reminded me a lot of Havana Vieja which I adore. This neighbourhood is quite small so everything is at walkable distance. On one side the Panama Bay can be seen backed by Avenida Balboa whereas from the Plaza de Francia the Amador Causeway and the Puenta de las Americas can be admired.

On D174 we took the Panama Canal Railway train along the canal starting from Corozal, Panama City (the Pacific side) to Colon (the Caribbean side) passing through jungle and a lot of artificial lakes filled with huge cargos. In unattractive and dodgy Colon, we took a local bus to Gatun locks where we could see the lock in operation. The boats come from one of the ocean and pass through all three locks to get to other ocean. At each lock they are lifted and lowered to the level of Panama Canal and pulled by some mules. The Canal has three locks in total and under construction a fourth one. Watching this human made masterpiece in operation was one of the highlights of my trip. From the locks we returned again to Colon and took an express bus to Panama City.

Next on the list was to visit the Parque Natural Metropolitano, a forest in the middle of the city with a viewpoint on top of the hill. Unfortunately the view from the top was overrated as the visibility was reduced due to tall trees. But the fast walking up the hill was quite welcomed.

After five chilled and fun days travelling together, Nico and I said our goodbyes early morning of D175.

My plan for the day was to explore the Amador Causeway and have a closer look at those tall and fascinating buildings on Avenida Balboa. First I taught I figured out the bus system of Panama City but I was wrong. So eventually I needed to take a taxi to the entrance of the Amador Causeway. This is a 2km palm tree lined promenade that connects four small islands (Naos, Culebra, Perico and Flamenco) to the main road.

On the left you have the view of the Panama Bay whereas on the right the Pacific entrance of the Panama Canal passing through the Puenta de las Americas can be viewed. It felt like dreaming walking on this promenade and somehow it felt like home as it reminded me of the Galway promenade sans the heat and sun. At the end of the causeway there was a shopping centre with a duty free shop.

The second half of the day I spent walking and admiring the different shape and size skyscrapers on Cinta Costera, the pedestrian path of Avenida Balboa. Shortly after the tropical storm started I paid a visit to the cinema to see the new Bourne Legacy movie. It was a beautiful and fresh evening and I really fancied a walk back to the hostel. At first I was hesitating to walk in the dark but I could see a lot of people jogging, walking, cycling and patrolling police on the Cinta Costera so I decided to do it. I got back in one piece and I was ready to sleep after a long day.

The following day (D176) I packed my stuff and jumped on the bus to Yaviza in the Darien Province. When we entered the Darien province everybody had to get off with their bags to be checked by the police. As I was the only one tourist on the bus my passport had to be registered at every checkpoint so sometimes the bus had to wait for me. Every police officer asked me where I am going and how long I am planning to stay. They also informed me that without a permit from Panama City I cannot visit the jungle areas except main towns like Yaviza and La Palma. After 8 hours in the bus, I finally arrived in Yaviza. This is the town where the Central American Interamericana (Pan Americana) Highway ends and would re-start 150km further south in Columbia, South America. The police guy at the bus terminal directed me to walk around a kilometre to register my arrival at the military headquarters just beside a Rio Chucunque. While I was walking with my big backpack everybody was staring at me as they would not have seen a human being before. I was the only tourist around so I assume it is quite new for them to see an outsider especially a female. After registration I walked back to the only one hotel in the town so I had no choice just to settle in. The service was crappy and the room was expensive but it was fine for a night.

The morning of D177 I hit the road again back to Metiti to get the connecting bus to Puerto Quimba. In Puerto Quimba I got on a boat to La Palma. The half an hour boat trip on Rio Tuira through the jungle was scenic enough.

 In La Palma I checked out the Hotel Biaquira Bagara. The owner was raw and  directly told me she does not have time to waste by showing me the rooms. But eventually she did. The hotel has a back porch overlooking the Rio Turia and the immense Darien Gap jungle.

Today it was all about getting to Portobello via Panama City. Next step was to inquire about a boat that sails to Colombia in the next few days. I was lucky enough to get the last place on a boat that leaves tomorrow afternoon. The first leg of my trip is over! It has been an amazing 5 months and 3 weeks visiting the beauties of Central America but now I am ready to move on. South America here I come!!! Adios Centro America y hola Sur America!